My first concern in booking a trip of this high end, extreme adventure was safety, especially traveling as a single female to Africa. However, my concerns were quickly remedied by the utmost attention to safety by the entire S.E.A.L. Team. From the airport greeting in Durban to constant safety drills before, during and after our daily adventures on the water and land tours, nothing was left to chance. Depending on your arrival day, you are either picked up from the airport or from one of the suggested nearby hotels.

I arrived in Durban one day prior and stayed at the Southern Sun North Beach which was a very nice hotel with a wonderful restaurant in the lobby. After a much needed night of rest from traveling for what seemed an eternity, the S.E.A.L. team met me promptly at 11:00 AM for the transfer to Mobtyi River Lodge. Unfortunately, my luggage did not make the same flights that I did. Since there were other people arriving the same day, we rode to the airport to pick them up along with my luggage that thankfully arrived at the same time. After guests were met and greeted, we started the 5 hour journey south to the lodge.

Mobtyi River Lodge and Introductions

We arrived at the lodge after dark but were quickly greeted with refreshing homemade ice tea. We were given our room key and our luggage was delivered to our rooms by the time we got there. Once we were settled in, we were instructed to meet back at the lodge for introductions and the orientation. We were introduced to all the S.E.A.L. team members that were going to be taking care of us for the week. In addition to the normal Captains and Divemasters on staff, there was also a full time medic, micro-light pilot and a masseuse/herbalist.

Diving Style

You meet each morning (already dressed in your wetsuit) on the beach before the boats are placed in the water. The boats are transferred to the beach by 4 X 4’s and only launched when all guests are in place and have been briefed on all safety measures. These safety briefings are done everyday before every launch. The boats are launched from the front end of the 4 X 4’s directly into the surf.

With the guests and locals on each side of the large, hard bottom inflatables, everybody works together to point the bow out to sea. Once the boat is floating correctly, guests are instructed to quickly jump on evenly from both sides. Then the fun begins….with large breakers coming into relatively shallow water, you could imagine the size of some of the waves (the locals call it swell) The first launch brought all of us to the brink of looking like we were ghosts and the “deer in the headlight” look plastered to our faces. But, the captain meticulously maneuvers the boat between the breakers and waits for the lull between the sets. Then, with the utmost confidence, the captain times his move just right and moves us effortlessly outside the breaker line.

Once in “safe water” life jackets are removed and our captain thanks Neptune for another safe passage while we applaud a perfect launch. On many mornings we would see dolphins surfing the backside of the waves and/or humpback whales greeting us which was always a great way to start the day.

Real Adventure Diving

By the time we are ready to go the micro-light aircraft had already been in the air for awhile searching for the action and had radioed the boats. There is a “spotter’s chair” on the boat which anybody can use. All divers are encouraged to help keep an eye out for the sure sign of a bait ball, diving birds, and dolphins. There are 3 bins in the middle of the boat and tank racks in front of those. One bin is for weight belts, the next for mask, fins, & snorkel, and the last bin is typically for dry stuff. However, not much stays dry so you must bring some type of dry bag for those items. There are 2 large plastic semi-dry bins with lids at the back of the boat, cushioned inside with life jackets for cameras. At all times, everybody must be ready to go as the action can start immediately and end just as quick.

Once action has been located and you reach it, the captain decides when, where and how you will enter the water. If the water clarity is good and there is a sustained bait ball, scuba may be an option. Otherwise, it will be snorkeling and believe me, there is plenty of action on the surface. You are once again reminded that safety is the main key and the importance of the buddy system is stressed over and over again.

When the action was really hot, we definitely felt safer in large numbers so we all stayed tightly together make a straight line. Once the action passes or the captain sees something else, there is a signal to exit the water so we can move with the action. Cameras and weight belts are handed up first and you hoist yourself back on the tender using the ropes off the side. If you do not have the upper body strength to do this, the captain or DM is always there to give you a hand. Albeit not graceful but definitely effective.

Breaching Humpbacks, Diving Birds, Dolphins, and...!

Our first day on the water brought us breaching humpback whales within minutes of passing through surge, giant mantas leaping out of the water to dolphins, sharks, diving birds and a bait ball that broke surface just feet from the boat but ended as quickly as it began. The action can go from “hectic” (as the South Africans call it) to dead still within minutes.

Each day on the water was more interesting than the day before, reaching the ultimate adventure the last day when we were graced with a bait ball in clear water. We had dolphins zooming within inches of us, diving birds, and sharks all feeding on what we had traveled half way around the world to see SARDINES!!

And It's Not Just the Diving!

After the day on the water ended, the land adventures began. The land adventure begins with the captain once again passing out the life jackets just outside the breaker line. As you sit there staring blankly at the backside of very large waves, you wonder just how the heck you are going to get to dry land again! This part was more nerve racking and adrenaline pumping than jumping in the water with dive bombing birds and circling sharks. You place your feet in straps that are attached to the deck, sit on the inflatable sides and hold on the ropes that are attached to the sides of the boat. The captain once again waits for the lull in the sets and safely passes us through the heavy surf. Just when you think it’s over, the boat increases speed and we are now running parallel to shore and then at the precise moment that the captain decides we make a hard right and head right into shore. It’s amazing how fast a boat comes to a stop without water underneath it! And they say a boat does not have brakes!!??!!

Besides Amazing Diving, Scenery, Waterfalls, a Witch Doctor, and more...

Once you catch your breath, a quick hot shower (and you need it from the cold) and lunch, the afternoon land tours were offered. Each day we were offered a different “sundowner”. This is a South African tradition that ends each day with drinks at sunset and gathering around a picture perfect vantage point (cliffs overlooking the ocean, hikes to the top of a waterfall, jungle trekking, horseback riding along the beach up the high cliffs above the breaking waves, etc.) toasting the end of another great day and looking forward to the beginning of the next. One day we were also offered a visit to a witch doctor. Each guest is also offered a ride in the ultra-light at least once during your stay. The ride is not one to be missed. On my flight, I saw Mantas, Humpback Whales and tons of dolphins not to mention flying over cliffs with 300 foot waterfalls cascading down into the ocean.

Back to the cozy lodge for dinner and relaxation. The lodge is all wood with a large eating area, 2 different lounge areas with comfortable couches and a fireplace, a bar area with Satellite TV, a game room with pool and ping pong tables. The floors and ceilings of the lodge are all made out of local wood and all the exterior walls are picture windows that face the ocean and the grounds which allow for ample cool breezes at all times of the day and night. The entire resort is fenced, guarded and patrolled for added safety.

Accomodations and Rooms

There are a couple of different types of accommodations but I would definitely stay in the cabin again. The cabins are in blocks of 3 and have private balconies, shower/tub combo, queen and single beds, coffee table, dressing table with mirror, 2 large closets and coffee/tea makers. The cabins do not have air or heat but do have ceiling fans There are balconies that overlook the beach on the east side so you are greeted each morning with beautiful sunrises over the Indian Ocean. The sun rises early and sets even earlier so the daylight hours are limited. There is door that opens to the balcony as well as a set of 3 large awning windows that all open to allow the maximum natural air conditioning. However, I found out quickly that you need to shut them before going to bed to avoid waking in the middle of the night with frostbite!

There are no phones in any of guest rooms so if you must connect to the outside world, you will have to do it from the front desk before 9 PM. The prices for International calls were R10 per minute which by the end of the week worked out to be around 1.42 US per minute. I had purchased an ATT calling card before I left the states so my calls going through the international operator were free. The last 4 days of my stay, there were telephone lines being repaired and did not have any land line connection nor internet. The only phone that was available for use was the satellite phone. I had rented a cell phone while in the Durban airport but there was no cell service from the lodge. However, it did work at times while out on the boat and on some of the land excursions. We also lost electricity for a day but did not inconvenience us in any way except dinner that night was cold sliced meat and salad.

Breakfast was served starting at 6:30 AM and consisted of hot and cold cereals, toast, croissants, fresh fruit, sliced meat and cheeses. There was a cooler with sandwiches, snacks, water, chips, and fruit offered on the boat each day. Lunch generally consisted of salads (on the buffer), bread, and a hot entrée served to your table. All beverages, except coffee and tea, were offered at an additional cost and paid upon check out. Dinner was served between 7:30 to 8:00 and consisted of an appetizer, soup and an entrée. Most meals were tasty and portions were plentiful. One night there was a traditional South African barbecue offering homemade sausages and lamb with interesting side dishes. There was full bar and an extensive South African wine list which were all moderately priced.

Final Thoughts and Reflections

Even after 8 days on the water you still wanted more. My experience was one that I will never forget and has left me wanting to see more of Africa and return each year to the annual migration of the Sardine Run. I wish to thank Nick de Gersigny and entire S.E.A.L. Expedition Team that made my trip safe, fun and most of all, unforgettable.

2007 Expedition Dates

The Expedition Dates for 2007 are:

June 1-10
June 11-20
June 21-30
July 1-10

In addition to the above Sardine Run expeditions, they also offer a number of different adventure “add-on” including Great White Sharks and bicycle safaris through Botswana.

Contact Me: If you'd like to discuss any aspects of my trip or book one yourself for 2007, please contact me (Terri Huber) via phone at PHD or by email: terri@peterhughes.com


Next Month; The Photos...